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July 2002
Worldbeaters: Home is where the bikes are
by Naomi Bloom
On
April 12 Pat and Cat Patterson climbed on their unbelievably heavy
Landrider bikes and pointed their front wheels north. It was the
first day of a round-the-world trek they hope to complete in 1000
days.
I caught up with the Pattersons by phone and email
when they were laying over in Rapid City, ND in June. "We completely
sold out to do this," Pat said. "Sold the business, the cars, rented
our house, gave away the furniture.
The days leading up to departure were filled with
the stress and physical difficulty of that closure. When the water
heater burst and flooded the entire downstairs of the house, they
figured it was a test for their ability to handle stress. After
all, they'd be handling plenty stress on the road.
But were they really ready? Pat had already made
a solo bike circumnavigation several years ago, but he was admittedly
out of shape. Cat had recently recuperated from a surprise heart
attack.
Had they trained? Set realistic goals? Were they
familiar with their bikes? Knowledgeable about camping or motels
on their route? Aware of the pitfalls of blazing their own, untried
routes?
Answer to all the above: a resounding "No!"
"Our training was: Load the bikes, get on and
go," Pat told me. "Sure, we're carrying too much weight, but we
chose to do that." Actually, they're testing the bikes for Landrider,
which had never designed their auto-shifting hybrid-type machines
for the special needs of long-distance traveling. Triple chain rings,
rack eyelets and water-bottle braze-ons were all new concepts to
a company that normally caters to the ultra-casual cyclist.
To appreciate the magnitude of what the Pattersons
are up to, check out their route at WorldRiders2.com.
After traversing the US, they'll head up through Quebec, touch down
in Greenland, then ride down through Europe before taking an extended
break, probably in Spain. Then they'll cross into North Africa and
make their way to South Africa, taking long breaks wherever the
fancy strikes them. Then Antarctica(!) before returning home through
South and Central America.
The first pedal strokes out of Oxnard were predictably
awkward. When Pat attempted a video shot from the seat of his bike,
he couldn't get out of his toe clips. "I became the first Worldrider
to hit the ground."
Realizing they'd never make their first night's goal
of El Capitan State Beach, they holed up in Santa Barbara. The next
day it took over an hour just to get to Goleta. And so it went all
that first week. They began hitching rides to destinations, then
doubling back to make up the "rubber on the road."
But Pat and Cat were undeterred. Other than one broken
spoke, their equipment has held up beautifully. They've learned
to distrust maps, not to mention advice from locals. They're willing
to lay over an extra day here and there to revive, reconnoiter or
just enjoy getting acquainted with family and friends. And they're
learning the ropes as they go.
For instance, they had no clue they could take advantage
of California State Parks bicycle campsites. Arriving at Pfeiffer-Big
Sur they were alarmed by the "Campgrounds Full" sign. But the ranger
simply asked them for $2.00. Then, when she realized they were sharing
the same tent, she said, "Oh, in that case it's only a dollar."
Of course, they're not camping every night. They
don't seem to be referring to motel or B&B guides, however. Otherwise,
they would already have known about their "discovery" of Zaballa
House in Half Moon Bay. It's featured in my book, Bed, Breakfast and Bike/Northern California, not to mention numerous other
B&B guides.
As
for choosing their routes, "we're beginning not to trust maps,"
Pat wrote in his Web
journal. "We gave up on [local] motorists a long time ago. They
always say, 'It's just a short way and it's flat, or downhill.'
Because they wanted to cross the country far to the north of Adventure Cycling's Northern
Tier, they couldn't use that organization's highly informative TransAmerica
maps to find the best roads, rest stops and campgrounds.
Lacking information about best routes has given Pat
and Cat more than a few scares. Like taking the freeway between
Santa Maria and Arroyo Grande. "Our two greatest hazards were trucks
screaming by at 70 mph and those pesky on and off ramps," Pat reported.
At Arroyo Grande they found the off-ramp closed for landscape maintenance.
That's when the Highway Patrolman showed up and told them they couldn't
ride on the freeway. Never mind that they'd just passed a sign that
said that stretch of 101 was part of the Bicentennial Bike Route.
Maybe they'd passed the "no alternative route" section of the freeway?
If so, where was the "Bicycles Must Exit" sign?
Another surprise was those nefarious "rumble strips"
on many rural highways. Although there's more than one
campaign to rid bike routes of these hazards, the Pattersons
had never heard of them and didn't even know what they were called.
Cat dubbed them "ZZZZTT, ZZZZTT bumps" because that's what they
sound like riding over them.
But the worst experience was the stretch of Highway
80 between Tahoe and Reno. The surface was old concrete with loose
sand overlapping the narrow shoulder and heavy truck (and gambler)
traffic. "I could see a sign, 'Reno 20 miles,' when I heard Cat
scream," Pat wrote. She had stalled in sand and crashed.
As luck would have it, it wasn't five minutes before
friends they'd made several miles back (who were dogging their route
"just in case") picked them up. And therein lies the secret behind
the WorldRiders' modus operandi: They make friends rapidly -- and
enduringly.
"On a bike, everyone wants to talk to you,"
said Pat. Pat and Cat want to talk to everyone in return. Even off
the bikes, at restaurants and points of interest, they engage others
in conversation and inevitably end up exchanging email addresses
and telephone numbers. It's their address book -- not guidebooks
-- that will get them through.
When facing the kinds of daunting challenges that
WorldRiders must face almost daily, friends are a requirement. Like
Pat's coming down with altitude sickness between Nevada City and
Donner Summit. Or making it through the Nevada desert and over the
passes to Wendover on the Utah border.
Wendover was even sweeter because they were still
eating dinner at 9:30 pm (normally sack time for worn-out WorldRiders).
They'd hadn't just reached another border, they'd also crossed into
a new time zone.
There will be many more borders and datelines to
cross in the next three years. But keeping score is not what the
WorldRiders are about. Instead, they've taken on a new lifestyle.
Pat was first inspired to pedal around the world
after reading Barbara Savage's book Miles From Nowhere. Although Barbara died just
before her book was published in 1983, Pat found her husband Larry's
number in the Santa Barbara phone book and called him for advice.
"Don't make too many plans," Larry told him. "Just go."
"That's what we're doing," Pat said. "Our home
is where the bike is. We tell people we're homeless just like so
many others on the streets. The only difference is we have more
options."
"You have to have a lot of patience," Pat told
me. "You have to be up for whatever happens." Something different
happens every day, she said, and, "It's just so fantastic."
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