November 1, 2007 France 2007: Wet and Wonderful By: Naomi Bloom |
Ah, France by bike. Fantastic food, great wine, traffic-free back roads, charming country hotels. Not to mention rain, fog, zero visibility, wet pavement. Yep, we had it all on our "Vines, Gorges and Causses of Southern France," tour in September and October. Looking back through the haze and drizzle, I remember some really outstanding days. Like when the sun came out on our very first day, accompanying us from the outskirts of bustling Toulouse to the Gaillac wine country. (If only we could get that really good, really cheap Gaillac wine here!) On our second day, we started out in a thick brouillard,
the French term for fog that rises from saturated
ground. Fog still hung over the quaint village
of Castlenaud de Montmiral during our brief
visit. By the time we'd scaled the hills to Cordes, it had totally burned off, leaving us clear skies under which to eat lunch, and check out those sweeping views of the still misty Valley of the Tarn. The Tarn a Velo The next day we followed the sunny, well-marked VeloRoute du Tarn along a smooth one-lane river road. We stopped to pick figs growing wild along the banks. And ended up in the quaint village of Brousse huddled beneath its picturesque chateau.
After the gorges, however, things turned sloppy again. Fog, rain and wet roads often made for hard slogging. Jim and I went down in a heap on a rainy descent when our tandem's front tire suddenly blew. It took him next to no time to fix the flat, and on we went, bleeding and bruised but not bowed. I'm proud to say we finished entire route except for last two kilometers that same day, after he spotted a bubble in the same tire. We'd planned the tour to go over many fantastic lookout points with vistas of mountain ranges and rugged wilderness. But thick fog blocked nearly all the views and kept our eyes glued to what we could see of the road. Fortunately traffic was next to nil; we shared the road only with construction vehicles, most of which were stopped at work sites. And when we descended a bit out of the fog, vistas opened up enough to gain some appreciation for where we were. Finally, on our tenth day out, we found ourselves riding back into the Department of the Tarn. No sooner did we cross the department line than the skies cleared and the sun reappeared. It was like we'd pedaled into another dimension as we shed layers, slapped on sunscreen and offered thanks to warm again. Soon we were enjoying our second rest day in Castres, where shopping took a high priority on everyone's agenda. My favorite shops were the town's many bookstores offering fine stationery, coffee table and souvenir books and even toys. The Tarn a Gourmandise Should you ever find yourself pedaling by any of these establishments -- some of the most outstanding on our journey -- do not hesitate to stop for a meal or a night's stay:
And the wine, you ask? Those first days through the vineyards of the Gaillac appellation were just a start. On our way to Albi we rounded a switchback and the aroma of the crush hit us full on. On our right, in stark contrast to the surrounding vines, stood a most industrial-looking building. We were passing through Labastide de Levis, and the vendange was in full production. More than once throughout the tour we were treated to the best of local wines, from the lightly spritzy Gaillac "Perle" whites to hearty, mouth-pleasing reds. Town and Country Riding back to Toulouse on our last day was even more rural. For nearly 75 km, I kept thinking, "Why are we still out in the boonies?" Finally the agrarian countryside gave way to a just a suburb or two before we plunged under the autoroute and into Toulouse. There we , meandered through the bustling bike/pedestrian paths along the Midi Canal, followed by the wide-open path along the banks of the Garonne River. Then it was a mere hop across the river and back to our original hotel in Blagnac. This was the second France tour Jim and I have led for Bicycle Adventure Club. On last year's tour of the Pyrenees, we hosted all northern Californians save one. This year our riders hailed from all over:
Then there was Gilbert our "native" sag driver. Without his knowledge of the countryside, his proactive concern for every rider, and his warm personality, this tour would not have been the success it was. Gilbert has driven for many a BAC trip in both France and the U.S. He often stopped along the route to make sure we took the correct turn, guided us through a muddy tunnel in a flooded village, and even provided the detailed maps for our ride through Toulouse on our last day. Merci Gilbert, tu es un type formidable! |
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